Garment



Nov. 19, 1935. L. ADLER 2,021,586

GARMENT Filed March 27, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR.

fmwl BYMJw ATTORNEYS Nov. 19, 1935.. I L. ADLER 2,021,536

GARMENT Filed March 27/ 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEYS Nov. 19, 1935. 1.. AIIDLER 2,021,586

GARMENT Filed March 27, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR.

BY w

v 22 3K) M ATTORNEYS Patented Nov. 19, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT Louis Adler, Great Neck, N. Y. Application March 27,1935, Serial No. 13,201 3 Claims. (01.244)

My invention relates to a new and improved garment, and a new and improved method of making the same.

One of theobjects of my invention is to produce a garment of the coat type, having sleeves,

in which the sleeve has an improved construction, so as to afford great freedom to the arms of the wearer.

Another object of my invention is to produce a garment of this type which is particularly adaptable for sportwear.

The invention generally applies to garments for men, women, and children, including outer' and undergarments, and including coats, jackets,

l5 dresses, shirts, blouses and the like.

Another object of my invention is to provide a sleeve with a part or insert of improved construction, in order to permit the sleeve to be raised to a vertical position, without tearing or injuring the seam or seams ofthe garment.

Another object of my invention is to provide a sleeve construction in which the body of the garment, either the front or the back thereof, has a body extension which forms a part of the underside of the sleeve.

Another object of my inventionis to provide a garment in which said body extension is stretchable in a direction parallel to the vertical axis of the garment, by cutting said body extension upon the bias-when the garment is made from a woven fabric. If-desired, the body members of the garment can be-cut on the bias and said body extension need not be cut on the bias, since the general object of the invention is to provide for a relative stretch between the body extension and the body of the garment.

Another object of my invention is to -provide a sleeve construction in which part of the inner edge of the sleeve forms part of the neck opening of the garment, although the invention is not to be restricted to this feature or to any particular feature specified herein.

v Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the'following description and drawings which illustrate several preferred embodiments of the invention, it being understood that the above statements of the objects of my invention is intended to generally explain the same without g limiting it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a garment made according to-my inventiom Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the sleeve which forms part of the garment illustrated in Fig. 1. 55 Fig. 3 is a partial side elevation of said gar- .and the body extension which is illustrated in Fig. 4 is a part of the back of the garment.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 2 and illustrating a different type of sleeve in which the sleeve 10 ,does not form part of the wall of the neck opening of the garment, the construction otherwise being generally the same as in Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a piece of fabric which is used for making a. front member of the garll ment illustrated .in Fig. 1.

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the fabric piece -which isimed for making the entire back of the garment which is shown in Fig. 1.

When a garment is made with the of the 20 pieces of fabric illustrated in Figs. 6 and '7, the front members of the garment have extensions which form parts of the sleeves of the garment.

Fig. 8 illustrates a modification of Fig. 7, in order to make a garment in which the body ex- 25, tension of the sleeve forms a partof the back of the garment as illustrated in Fig. 4.

Fig. 9 illustrates a modification of the front member of the garment, which is used in combination with Fig. 8 in order to provide the con- 80 struction which is illustrated in Fig. 4.

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a piece of fabric which is used for making the sleeve illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4.- In these embodiments an edge portion of the sleeve forms a part of the wall of the neck opening of the garment.

Fig. 11 illustrates a modification ofthe front member of thegarment.

Fig. 12 illustrates a modification of the back member of the garment, this being used in combination with the embodiment of Fig. 11. .In such embodiment the body extension which forms part of the sleeve of the garment, is part of the front member of the garment, but the. edge portion of the sleeve does not .Iorm part of the neck opening of the garment.

Fig. 13 is a plan view of the piece of fabric which is used for making the sleeve member, in combination with the embodiments of Figs. 11 and 12, and the type of garment whichisthus produced is illustrated in Fig. 5.

Fig 14 is a modification of Fig. .11, and Fig. 15 is a modification of Fig. 12. The embodiments of Fig. 14'and Fig. 15 are used in combination with the sleeve member illustrated in Fig. 13, so 5 5 as to produce a garment in which the extension of the sleeve is a part of the back of the garment.

Fig. 16 is a plan view of a yoke member which is used in combination with the back member illustrated in Fig. 12 and also in Fig. 15.

Fig. 1'7 is a partial elevation showing the assembly of the yoke member illustrated in Fig. 16 and the back member illustrated in Fig. 12. This assembly also applies generally when the yoke member illustrated in Fig. 16 is combined with the back member illustrated in Fig. 15.

Fig. 18 illustrates another modification of the invention, as applied to a blouse, instead of being applied to a dress.

Fig. 19 is a plan view of a piece of fabric which forms the single front member'F of the blouse, which is generally illustrated in Fig. 18.

Fig. 20 is a plan view of a piece of fabric which is used for making the back member B of the blouse which is generally illustrated in Fig. 18.

Fig. 21 is a plan view of a piece of fabric which is used for making the sleeve which is illustrated in Fig. 18.

Figs. 22 and 23 are respectively plan views of a front member F and of a back member B which can be used for making the garment shown in Fig 18. In Fig. 22 the body extensions are shown as forming part of the front member whereas in Fig. 20 said body extensions are shown as forming part of the back member.

Referring to Figs. 1, 6, and '7, the entire back of the garment is out from a piece of material which is illustrated in Fig. 7. In this particular embodiment the front of the garment has two pieces or members, one of which is illustrated in Fig. 6. The garment G may be made of any suitable material.

Referring to Fig. 10, the piece of fabric which is used for making the sleeve S is provided with an extension la which is narrower than the body of the sleeve, and the inner end of said extension la is provided with an edge portion lb which is substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the piece of fabric. The remainder of said edge portion I0 is of concave contour.

As shown in Fig. l, the extension I a is located in the upper or outer part of the sleeve, and it extends into the shoulder part of the garment.

In order to assemble the garment, the front edge portion '1 of the sleeve member is sewed to the top edge portion 6a of the extension of front member F. The line 2 which is indicated in Fig. I0 is stitched to the line 211. which is indicated in Fig. 6. Fig. 10 is drawn to larger scale than Fig. 6. Figs. 6 and '7 are drawn to the same scale. This applies generally to the drawings of the other embodiments.

The edge portion 6 of the sleeve member is sewed to the intermediate edge portion 1a of the extension of. the front member F.

The line 3 which is indicated in Fig. 10, is stitched to the line 3a which is indicated in Fig. 6. The bottom edge portion 4 of the extension of the front member F is connected to the edge portion la of the back member B. The bottom edge portion I of the extension is essentially a continuation of the edge portion 22 of the front member F, as the invention is not to be limited to the formation of a notch between edge portions 22 and 4. Upon comparing Fig. 6 and Fig. '7, it can be seen that the edge 4a. makes a smaller angle with the vertical axis than the bottom edge portion 4 of the extension. Hence the warp threads make a smaller angle with edge portion 4a than with edge portion 4. If the pattern in the usual manner, with the warp threads parallel to the longitudinal axes of the pattern pieces. Hence, when edge portions 4 and do are sewed together as shown in Fig. 3, the warp threads are inclined to each other at opposite sides of said seam, so that the extension is stretchable relative to the body of the garment. For convenience, the members F and B may be designated as adjacent portions of the garment, it being noted that in some embodiments the extension is part of each front member, and in some embodiments, the extensions are part of the back member.

The line 5a represented in Fig. 6, is stitched to the line 5 which is shown in Fig. '7.

It will be noted that the back member B has two edge portions 4a, since there are two front members F. The edge portion 8 of the front member F is stitched to the edge portion 80 of the sleeve member. The edge portion 8a of the back member is stitched to the edge portion 81; of the sleeve member. Said edge portion 8a may be formed with tucks, so as to decrease its width.

The notches 9 of the front members, and the Fig. 6 also shows the fold-line l l, on which the collar member C is folded and Fig. 2 shows how this fold-line ll forms part of the wall of the neck-opening of the garment.

Proceeding from the back of the garment to the front thereof, the wall of the neck-opening consists of the edge portion ID, the edge portions lb and la, and the walls of the notch 9, and the foldline ll.

The sleeve may be provided with a cuif l2.

Of course the edges l4 and Md of the sleeve member shown in Fig. 10 are sewed together in the usual manner. in order to form the seam of the sleeve.

That part of the edge portion of the sleeve member which is between the points l1 and IB, is sewed to the edge portion 2| of the front member. The edge portions 6a and 2| define a notch in the body member. That part of the sleeve member which is between the points l5 and I6 is sewed to the edge portion IQ of the back member.

Hence a part of the sleeve forms a part of the shoulder portion of the garment, and the extension of the sleeve forms a part of the wall of the neck opening of the garment.

Referring to Figs. 6 and 7, the edge portions 22 and 23 are connected to each other. Referring to Fig. 3 this shows a seam line consisting of the joined edges 22 and 23.

As shown in Fig. 3, when thesleeve is raised to a substantially vertical position, the front of the garment has an extension which is generally indicated by the reference letter E and this extension is then in substaitially the vertical position.

When the sleeve is bent down to normal position, this extension E folds naturally and without forming any objectionable plaits or fullness.

Likewise I have eliminated a seam along the line on which the sleeve folds downwardly, thus'providing a much stronger construction.

The improved construction thus p 'vides a sleeve which permits perfect freedom tothe arm of the wearer without forming any objectionable gussets or any objectionable fullness.

illustrated in Fig. 12, and a yoke member of the type shown in Fig. 16.

The yoke member illustrated in Fig. 16 is connected to the back member '13 which is illustrated in Fig. 12 or in Fig. 15. r

In order to use the yoke member illustrated in Fig. 16, said member is folded so that the fold lines 42' coincide with thecentral line 42. This forms a pleat on each side of the central line 42. When the yoke is thus folded the edge portions 40 on one side of the center line 42 coincide with each other and with the edge portion 40'. On the other side of the center line '42, the edge portions 4| of the yoke coincide with each other and with,

the edge portion 4| Referring to the top of Fig. 16, the top edge of the yoke has a concave edge portion 44 which may be considered as consisting of 'two half portions on each side of the center line 42. Adjacent said central concave edge portion 44, the upper edge of the yoke has concave edge portions 43 and 43'.

When the yoke is folded in the manner previously mentioned, the two halves of the concave edge portion 43' are folded upon each other and they coincide with the corresponding half of the concave edge portion 44. Similarly the two halves of the concave edge portion 43 fold upon each other and they coincide u 11 their half of the corresponding edge portion 4.

Referring to the assembly shown in Fig. 1'1, the edge portions 48 of the yoke are sewed to the top edge portions 32 of the back member B. The coincident edge portions 40 and 40' are sewed to one edge of the notch 32'. The coincident edge portions 4i and 4! are sewed to the other edge of the notch 32'. ,,This provides a garment having a pleat formed in the back of the yoke thereof.

.The edge portions 41 of the yoke are sewed to the edge portions 3| of the respective front members. Each edge portion 48 of the yoke is sewed to part of that edge portion of the sleeve, which is between the points 24 and 21. The yoke Y may be of any suitable construction. I

The edge portion 22" ofthe sleeve member 2 which is shown in Fig. 13 is sewed .to the edge por- 'tion 23' illustrated in Fig. 11. The edge portion 24 is sewed to the edge portion 25 illustrated in Fig. 11. I c

The edge portion of the sleeve which is located between the points 26 and 21 may be considered as being divided into three parts. One of these three parts is connected to the edge portion 28 of the front member F, the second of these three parts is connected to an edge portion 48 of the yoke, and the last of these three parts isconnected to an edge portion 29 of the back.

The edge portions 30 and 3| are also connected to each other, and the edge portions 22 and 22 of Figs. 11 and 12 are also connected to each other. The assembly of the parts shown in Figs. 13,

14, 15, and 16 is generally the same as that stated in connection with the last'embodiment, the only difference being that the extensions of the body of the garment are now located upon the back of the garment instead-of being located on the front of the garment. 6

Referring to Figs. 19 and 20, the edges 36 and 31 of the front member F are sewed to the edges 38 and- 39 of the back member B. The general and 20 save that the front member F has the ex' 20' tensions E which have previously been described.

I have shown several embodiments of my invention n order to illustrate the fact that there may be considerable variation from the details mentioned herein, without departing from the 25 spirit of the invention.

It; will be noted that the extensions on the pattern pieces generally correspond to three sides of a rectangle, said rectangle having acute and obtuse angles. This axis of the extension ,is in- 30 clined to the vertical axis of the garment.

In the completed garment the body extension E or E has an upwardly tapered shape, and said extension has concave side edges.

The drawings correspond substantially to scale.

The improved garment can be made from any suitable woven or knitted material. V While I have shown the use of integral front members and integral back members, etc. it would not be departing from the invention if the integral 40 members would be made of several pieces, joined to each other.

In the completed garment, the body extension comes substantially to a point in the sleeve, said point being partially concealed by the. cuff I2 which is shown in Fig. 3 and in Fig. 4 for example.

The point in the body extension is located about -midway intermediate the edges of the cuff i2 and cent saidnpper edge of the extension, the other body portion' having an edge portion which is connected to the lower edge of the extension, said 00 lower edge and the connected edge portion of the other body portion making different angles with the respective vertical axes of the respective pat- 4 tern pieces of said body portions, and a sleeve member sewed to the upper edge and to the inter- 85 mediateedge of said extension, said sleeve member being also sewed to the edge of said notch and to that part of the other .body portion which is directly adjacent said notch, the upper and the 1 intermediate edge portions of the extension being located in the inner portion of the sleeve.

2. A garment having adjacent body portions, one of said body portions having an extension which has an upper edge and a lower edge and -anintermediateedge,saidbodyporthnhavinga notch in its edge, said notch being directly adjacent said upper edge of the extension, the other body portion having an edge portion which is connected to the lower edge of the extension, said lower edge and the connected edge portion of the other body portion making diflerent angles with the respective vertical axes of the respective pattern pieces of said body portions, and a sleeve member sewed to the upper edge and to the intermediate edge of said extension, said sleeve member being also sewed to the edge of said notch and to that part of the other body portion which is directly adjacent said notch, the upper and the intermediate edge portions of the extension being located in the inner portion of the sleeve, said extension having its upper and lower edges substantially parallel to each other, said upper and lower edges respectively making acute and obtuse angles with the intermediate edge in the pattern piece of the first mentioned body portion.

3. A garment having adjacent body portions, one of said body portions, having an extension which has an upper edge and a lower edge and an intermediate edge, said body portion having a notch in its edge, said notch being directly adjacent said upper edge of the extension, the other body portion having an edge portion which is connected to the lower edge of the extension, said lower edge and the connected edge portion of the other body portion making different angles with the respective vertical axes of the respective pattern pieces of said body portions, and a sleeve member sewed to the upper edge and to the intermediate edge of said extension, said sleeve member being also sewed to the edge of the notch and to that part of the other body portion which is directly adjacent said notch, the upper and intermediate edge portions of the extension being located in the inner portion of the sleeve, the angle of the lower edge of the extension to the vertical axis of the corresponding pattern piece exceeding the angle of the connected edge portion of the other body portion to the ver- 20 tical axis of the corresponding pattern piece.

LOUIS ADLER. 

